I ordered a Skywalker Trampolines 60 In Round Seaside Adventure Bouncer with Enclosure from amazon.com.  The reviews were very positive except for complaints about how poor the instructions were so I decided to write up clear instructions to help everyone out.  I do concur, the manufacturer’s instructions were bad:

• outdated instructions–actual product design does not match design shown in instructions
• SUPER confusing diagrams

This should be a major improvement and a lot of help for some parents who are dying to provide a great way to let their kids work some stink off…

How to Assemble a Skywalker Trampolines 60 Inch Round Seaside AdventureBouncer with Enclosure

Hardware:

• Skywalker Trampolines 60 In. Round Seaside Adventure Bouncer with Enclosure

Tools Needed:

• Phillips Screwdriver (but it’s much easier if you have a cordless drill, I love my Makita)

2015-02-20 Experience Update:

We had one of the legs of this trampoline bend in and break at the weld.  This trampoline has a 1-year warranty and we’ve owned it a few weeks under a year.  After emailing Skywalker’s customer service (email link here), sending them pictures of the damage and my receipt showing the model number, SBT60, they put a replacement part in the mail (via UPS) right away.  I was pleased with my customer support experience with them.  They didn’t make me mail them anything (like the broken part) so that was nice.  You can read my instructions for fixing a bent leg here: How to Fix Bent Leg on Skywalker Trampoline

Step 1:  Unboxing.

he box I was shipped had two fiberglass bands around it.  When I cut the bands the top of the box just lifted off (so don’t start tearing open the box if this is what your box looks like):

This is how the Skywalker Trampolines 60 Inch Round Seaside Adventure Bouncer with Enclosure was shipped to me

The top of the box comes right off when you cut the straps

The parts taken out of the box

Step 2: Assemble the trampoline’s main frame loop.

Look for the 6 heaviest curved parts with the short vertical pipes welded on the top and bottom where the legs and side rails will attach.  On one end they are small, enabling you to slip the small ends into the other ends.  Assemble the 6 pieces to complete the loop with the large post pointing down and the small one pointing up like this:

Make sure the large diameter pipe points down and the smaller pipe points up

When you are done this is what it should look like (make sure the small pipes point up and the large pipes point down):

The main frame loop assembled

Step 3: Lay out the trampoline mat inside the loop.

Here is the first place where the manufacturer’s instructions deviated from the actual product I received.  The trampoline I received had the protective side netting connected to the actual trampoline mat that you jump on, where the instructions had them as two separate pieces.  Lay out the trampoline mat and screen as follows, with the zippered door directly in-between the legs.  You will want to lay out the mesh so the doorway is laying out flat as seen below so you can line it up between the legs:

Orient the trampoline mat so the screen door is right between the legs

Step 4: Connect the elastic bands.

The elastic bands were tied into a bundle like this:

The bundle of elastic bands

They are tied together by one of the bands, which you must untie.  It actually was tricky to untie.  You should have 36 of them:

36 elastic bands to install

You should start at one point and then connect every 6th loop.  This is where the manufacturer’s instructions were absolutely awful.  The diagrams for connecting the elastic bands were totally unhelpful and confusing.  They make it look a little like you were supposed to take the elastic loops and thread them onto the pipes so there is only one stretch of the elastic band wrapped around the pipe, but that is not how you should do it.  First slip the elastic loop of the band through the trampoline’s nylon loop like this (with the ball up tight against the nylon loop):

Slip the elastic loop all the way through the nylon loop so the ball is tight to the side

Take the elastic loop and pull it OVER the metal bar, wrap under and back around, and then loop it over the plastic ball to hold it in place like this:

This is how it should look when the elastic band is installed

Tips on installing these elastic bands:

• Pull the elastic loop through the nylon loop so that the ball is up tight against the nylon loop–this helps the elastic loop to connect tightly over the plastic ball when you loop it over.
• Pull the elastic loop OVER the pipe first and then tuck under the frame and then loop over the ball.  By doing this the ball will tend to point down, not up, so that if someone comes down on the top they won’t bang into a ball.

Once you have the first 6 bands installed this is what it will look like.  The loop doesn’t make a perfect circle at this point because the bands make the bars turn a bit but don’t worry about this–it will correct itself later.  Also note that I had some of the balls pointing up but I went back and pulled the band over the top of the bar first so they pointed down in the end:

The first 6 bands installed

After you have gone all the way around doing every 6th loop, install one more band in the middle of each of the 6 you first installed.  This is what you’ll have:

Installing one band in-between each of the first 6 bands

Install another band in-between each loop (just pick one of the two spots) and work your way around.  Go around again and fill in all the bands.  When you are done it will look like this:

All 36 elastic bands installed

Note: the metal loop will not be flat at this point.  I wish the manufacturer’s instructions would have mentioned this.  It’s no big deal so don’t sweat it at this point, it will straighten itself out in upcoming steps.

Note how wavy the frame is at this point–it’s not a problem at all

Step 5: Install the 6 leg pipes.

Locate the 6 pipes with black end caps on them that look like this:

The 6 trampoline legs

The legs are small on the end that goes into the pipe on the bottom of the frame loop of the trampoline and have a hole that you must line up to install the single screw as shown here:

The hole is lined up so you can install the screw

The junk L-shaped screw driver supplied with the trampoline–good luck using that to install all those screws!

I used a cordless drill to install the screws

Install screws into all 6 legs.  Again, don’t worry about the fact that the legs won’t all touch the ground because the loop is wavy–it will work its way out later.  I tried to straighten it at this point but was unable but in the end it didn’t matter.  The far right leg here isn’t even touching the ground:

You can try to straighten the legs but at this point my trampoline was still not flat but it is still not a problem

Step 6: Install the skirt.

This loops around the outside of the trampoline and covers up the elastic bands and has a netting that hangs down and covers the legs (so kids aren’t tempted to go under the trampoline while kids are jumping on it and get smashed).  This is what it looks like straight out of the box:

The trampoline skirt

First place the skirt so that the slit in the material fits over the pipes that stick up like this (and there’s a hole in the mesh for the pipe to fit through):

Slip the vertical pipe up through the hole in the skirt with the netting hanging down on the ouside

The mesh netting will hang down over the legs with some of the blue material wrapping around the sides of the loop.  Work your way around, placing the vertical pipes up through the holes and wrapping the blue skirt over the hoop.

Working your way around slipping each pipe through the skirt’s openings

The skirt needs to stretch out a bit and I had a problem getting it to stay wrapped down over the loop.  You are going to screw the netting to the legs in a bit so that will help it stay in place.

Stretch the blue material so it wraps around the main frame loop

Now pull the skirt netting down along the legs.  I actually just turned the whole trampoline over for this step (in this case you will pull the netting UP):

I flipped over the trampoline for this step

There is a metal eyelet on the bottom of the netting that you need to match up with the hole in the leg:

The hole you’ll line the eyelet up with

All lined up:

Line up the eyelet with the hole at the bottom of the leg

Install a screw in each of the 6 legs:

Install a screw through each eyelet

This is what it will look like when you are done:

Now the skirt screen is attached to all the legs

Step 7: Insert the vertical side rail standards into the frame.

They are the bent metal pipes covered in super-cheap foam with a piece of tubing welded horizontally in the middle:

The vertical side rail standards

DON’T TAKE OFF THE FOAM.

It looks so cheap that I thought it was just protection for shipping but it’s not–it’s meant to be left on there.  You will take the end that is curved, lift the foam slightly and slip them into the short pipes sticking up around the metal loop of the trampoline:

Inserting the vertical rail standard into the pipe on the top of the main loop frame

A vertical side rail standard installed

The foam they give you is pretty much a joke and is not going to last long at all.  A lot of the foam was damaged in shipping in the product I received:

Foam damaged in shipping

Somehow I didn’t get a picture of what it looks like when I had all the vertical side rails installed.  They all lean towards the center of the mat though.

Step 8: Install a single screw through the frame into the base of each vertical side rail standard.

At the bottom of the vertical rails lift up the foam slightly to show the hole in the frame tube.  Turn the side rail so that its hole lines up and install the screw:

Installing a screw at the bottom of each vertical side rail standard

After installing these screws I had 2 left over.  I double-checked to see if I had missed installing any of the screws since they are all covered up with foam but they really did give me to extra which is kind of nice:

I had 2 screws left over–it made me double check that I didn’t leave one out

Step 9: Install the foam on the side rail loop.

There are 6 smaller curved bars that do not have foam on them and 6 loose pieces of foam.  Locate these and slip the foam tubes on each of the rails.

Foam for covering the horizontal side rail loop pipes

Inserting the foam on the pipes

I left the foam tubing so that the small end of the bar was sticking out:

I left the small end of the pipes sticking out

Step 10:  Install the side rail loop on the vertical side rail standards.

Note: I’ve been informed by one of my readers that Skywalker Trampolines has changed their product design so that the side rail loop feeds through red sleeves in the netting (doing away with the string in Step 12) so this step may deviate from my instructions if you have their newest mode.  If it is as I guess, you will want to wait to install the side rail loop until you have the side netting hooked on the top of the vertical standards, so you can feed it through the loops.

Insert the ends of the circular into the short loops that are welded to the vertical side rails.

Installing the first pipe of the loop, small end in first

Here you can see that the large end of the horizontal rail is on this end:

Here you can see how far the rail stuck into the loop

Fit together the pipes with the small ends going into the big ends and work your way around…

2nd pipe installed

3rd pipe installed

Tip: Sometimes I found it helpful to insert the first (small) end of the pipe with the curve going up and get it seated into the previous pipe and then turn the pipe down after it is put together, and afterwards insert the other end in the vertical standard:

Sometimes it helped to put the pipe in like this and get it seated first before moving forward

Here I have the loop completed:

The horizontal side rail loop is assembled

The loop doesn’t fit tightly together and will actually be held together by the screen that connects to the top of the side rail vertical standards.  So don’t sweat it if seems like the thing is going to fall apart at this point because you’re not done and it will firm up as you go.

Step 10: Install the caps on the vertical rails.

There are 6 caps included in the parts you’ll need to locate:

The 6 caps for the side rail standards

Install one of these on to top of each vertical bar.  They take a little force to get them to slide on.  I was tempted to go get a hammer to tap them on and you might opt to do that.  Be careful not to use too much force so you don’t crack them.  I had to pound on them with my palm a bit.

You must tap them pretty hard with your hand to get them to slide down over the end of the pipe

All the end caps installed

At this point I decided that the foam they provide to cover the rails was destined to be totally destroyed in a week because it was so cheap.  I decided that before I went any further I would wrap all the foam in duct tape.  Instead of inserting all those steps in this installation post I figured I’d put it in another post and you can visit it here:

How to Make Your Skywalker Trampolines 60 Inch Round Seaside Adventure Bouncer with Enclosure Last Longer With Duct Tape

Follow the steps on that post and then come back and pick back up here…

Step 11: Install the side screen on the vertical standards.

Lift up the screen and locate the red nylon loops and hook each one over the red caps at the top of the vertical standards.  Make sure you are not twisting up the screen and you are hooking the loop straight above where it goes.

Find the red loop straight below the standard and lift it straight up

The screen loop installed on the side rail standard cap

The first 2 installed–they hold the horizontal loop together tightly

All the loops installed

Step 12: Install the string that holds the netting to the rail loop.

Locate the nylon string:

String for connecting the “waistband” of the side netting to the horizontal loop rail

The manufacturer’s instructions deviated from the actual product I was shipped for this step.  The netting on the side screen has two parallel strips of material right where the horizontal loop runs:

One of two parallel perforated flaps of material for connecting the screen to the horizontal loop

One of these perforated strips should go on top of the rail loop and one should go on the bottom.  You will then zig-zag the string through the holes.  The string is not long enough for you to be able to go through every hole–I sent back and forth about every 4 or 5 holes and ended up with enough string at the end:

Zig-Zagging the string through the holes about every 4-5 holes on the outside of the pipe

You then cinch it together like so:

By cinching the string tight it will wrap the flaps of material around the pipe

Tying a knot when you make it all the way around:

Knot the string when you make it all the way around

All done!!

Project complete–now time to get the kid burning off some energy!!

Other Useful Links

• Skywalker Trampolines Website
• Replacement Parts Link
• How to Make Your Skywalker Trampolines 60 Inch Round Seaside Adventure Bouncer with Enclosure Last Longer With Duct Tape